Articles from Lectures (Flower Workshops) and Speaker Topics
Preparing Cut Flowers Review
28 July 2007
Rick Heaslip
Answer “T” for True or “F” for False. You may discuss these questions with a partner or a
group of people. E-mail me if the answer is not obvious to you! ([email protected])
Be ready to give reasons for your choices. (It’s for fun - don’t be intimidated!!)
1. You should gather all your cut flowers at noon when it is hot. ______
2. Take buckets full of water with you in the garden. ______
3. All cut flowers should be plunged into icy cold water to keep fresh. ______
4. Make sure you cut some buds to go with the full flowers. ______
5. Some flowers need conditioning before they are hardened off. ______
6. Thick, woody stems will do better if they are split or scraped. ______
7. Most flowers should be placed in a warm,dark place overnight. ______
8. Rick always has his tags made out 2 days before the show. ______
9. Roses should be cut when the second petal unfurls. ______
10. Calendulas, dahlias and marigolds should be cut fully open. ______
11. Judges allow you to groom and clean your specimens. ______
12. If flower heads are drooping, you may use short wires or toothpicks to support them. _______
13. Judges take off more marks for tearing or bruising than for insect damage or yellowing of leaves. ______
14. If 3 specimens are called for (not mixed), the judge gives more marks if all three are alike in size, form, colour and cultural perfection. ______
15. The new micro-petunias could be shown in the class, “Any Other Annual” when there is no “Any Other Petunia” class. ______
16. The more florets open on a gladiolus, the more marks awarded. ______
17. The same rose could be entered in 3 places in our show. ______
18. The stem and foliage on a dahlia earn the most points. ______
19. Always try to show some foliage when exhibiting specimen flowers. ____
20. Snapdragon spikes are measured from the table to the top bud. ______
28 July 2007
Rick Heaslip
Answer “T” for True or “F” for False. You may discuss these questions with a partner or a
group of people. E-mail me if the answer is not obvious to you! ([email protected])
Be ready to give reasons for your choices. (It’s for fun - don’t be intimidated!!)
1. You should gather all your cut flowers at noon when it is hot. ______
2. Take buckets full of water with you in the garden. ______
3. All cut flowers should be plunged into icy cold water to keep fresh. ______
4. Make sure you cut some buds to go with the full flowers. ______
5. Some flowers need conditioning before they are hardened off. ______
6. Thick, woody stems will do better if they are split or scraped. ______
7. Most flowers should be placed in a warm,dark place overnight. ______
8. Rick always has his tags made out 2 days before the show. ______
9. Roses should be cut when the second petal unfurls. ______
10. Calendulas, dahlias and marigolds should be cut fully open. ______
11. Judges allow you to groom and clean your specimens. ______
12. If flower heads are drooping, you may use short wires or toothpicks to support them. _______
13. Judges take off more marks for tearing or bruising than for insect damage or yellowing of leaves. ______
14. If 3 specimens are called for (not mixed), the judge gives more marks if all three are alike in size, form, colour and cultural perfection. ______
15. The new micro-petunias could be shown in the class, “Any Other Annual” when there is no “Any Other Petunia” class. ______
16. The more florets open on a gladiolus, the more marks awarded. ______
17. The same rose could be entered in 3 places in our show. ______
18. The stem and foliage on a dahlia earn the most points. ______
19. Always try to show some foliage when exhibiting specimen flowers. ____
20. Snapdragon spikes are measured from the table to the top bud. ______
Starting Seeds Indoors
Rick Heaslip
Feb 2004
If you have never had the nerve to try to start your own seeds indoors, here are some tips to give it a try this year. There are several advantages to starting your own seeds: it is relatively inexpensive; you have a choice of many more varieties; you can get a jump-start on spring for later varieties; you have control over germination conditions and timing; and there is a great sense of accomplishment in nurturing along tiny seeds into mature, flowering plants.
Ordering Seeds: Make sure that you order or pick up seeds in plenty of time! As soon as you receive seed packages, check starting instructions. Look for any seeds that have to be frozen or put in the cold to break dormancy and do that immediately! (Don’t forget to get them back out again when it is time to start your seeds!) Place the packages in Ziplock bags or sealable containers and place in the fridge until you need them to retain their moisture - at both the starting period and with any leftover packages.
Starting Times: Count back how many weeks various seeds have to be started and place in groupings. You may need several starting times ie. 12 weeks, 10 weeks, 8 weeks, etc. Sub-divide packages into groups which require light, no-light, warmth, cold, etc.
Containers: Almost any container will do as long as it is clean and allows good drainage: cut-down milk cartons, wooden flats, pressed peat boxes, plastic boxes, egg cartons, peat pots, jiffy pellets, and yogurt containers. Recycled containers can be sterilized with bleach and hot water or the dishwasher.
Growing Media: Artificial soil eg. “Pro-Mix”, is excellent for starting seeds since it is a sterilized, disease-free growing medium, made up of peat and perlite. It is light in weight, and retains moisture well (but never allow it to dry out completely since it is difficult to re-moisten.) If using potting soil or garden soil, bake or pour boiling water over it to inhibit disease, and lighten it up with vermiculite or perlite and peat moss. A good idea is to treat the soil surface at the time of seeding with a chemical called “No Damp” which inhibits the growth of a fungus which makes seedlings keel over.
Sowing: Read and follow directions carefully on seed packages as some seeds need special treatment!
1. Fill container and tamp down firmly.
2. Broadcast seeds or plant in rows as evenly as possible. Small seeds may be mixed with pepper or fine sand and sprinkled from salt shaker or use a seed drill.
3. Cover most seeds with fine soil or vermiculite, usually 2 times the thickness of the seed (be careful! There are exceptions since some seeds need light to germinate). Press firmly.
4. Label containers.
5. Water: either with fine spray mist or from the bottom by soaking in lukewarm water.
6. Cover with glass or plastic sheets. Zip-lock bags may be used for individual containers.
Temperature and Light: Follow instructions on the package. Most seeds germinate best with gentle bottom heat; i.e. Heating cable, heating pad, top of fridge, water heater, etc. Others prefer to be placed in a cool area. Some need total darkness for germination while others require light and should not even be covered with soil.
Germination:
1. Be aware of possible germination time (from package or previous notes). Check daily and don’t give up too quickly since most seeds germinate erratically.
2. Remove from heat source when most of germination is complete.
3. Remove plastic.
4. Spray regularly with “No Damp” and avoid overcrowding of containers.
5. Use gentle watering, preferably soaking from the bottom, or spray mist but not with cold water.
6. Lower growing temperature by approximately 10 degrees.
Growing:
1. A good growing temperature is 22̊C daytime; 18̊C nighttime.
2. Water and fertilize regularly with a special “seedling” fertilizer (e.g. Plant Prod) or a 20-20-20 fertilizer.
3. Allow soil surface to become dry to prevent mildew.
4. 12-16 hours of light is best for optimal plant growth. Ordinary fluorescent tubes will do the trick but allow 6 inches between the seedlings and the light source and 12 inches between lights and top leaves of larger plants.
5. Larger seedlings may have to be transplanted more than once before hardening off.
Transplanting:
1. Transplant when the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves (not seed leaves).
2. Use pencil, pickle fork, etc. to gently lift and transplant seedling (holding by leaves, not stem) into pre-prepared hole at the same growing depth for most plants.
3. A richer soil mixture may be used; i.e. 2 parts loam, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite or perlite, or continue with Pro Mix, but be
prepared to fertilize more.
4. Label and water carefully after packing soil carefully around seedlings. Avoid overcrowding of seedlings and containers.
5. Smaller seedlings, such as lobelia, may be transplanted in small clumps.
6. Difficult seedlings can be grown in biodegradable peat pots or pellets for direct transplanting into large pots or the garden.
7. Time your transplanting so that you move the boxes into a greenhouse, lean-to, or cold frame starting around the beginning of May. Of course, watch the temperature and provide heat during the nights when the temperature will dip below 0̊C!
Never place young plants directly from your house or greenhouse into the garden. To avoid shock and to build up tolerance for the elements, young plants need to go through a 7 to 10 day “hardening off” period by placing the plant outside for several hours in a sheltered spot the first day.
Gradually increase the time outdoors until they are ready to be placed in the garden permanently.
Rick Heaslip
Feb 2004
If you have never had the nerve to try to start your own seeds indoors, here are some tips to give it a try this year. There are several advantages to starting your own seeds: it is relatively inexpensive; you have a choice of many more varieties; you can get a jump-start on spring for later varieties; you have control over germination conditions and timing; and there is a great sense of accomplishment in nurturing along tiny seeds into mature, flowering plants.
Ordering Seeds: Make sure that you order or pick up seeds in plenty of time! As soon as you receive seed packages, check starting instructions. Look for any seeds that have to be frozen or put in the cold to break dormancy and do that immediately! (Don’t forget to get them back out again when it is time to start your seeds!) Place the packages in Ziplock bags or sealable containers and place in the fridge until you need them to retain their moisture - at both the starting period and with any leftover packages.
Starting Times: Count back how many weeks various seeds have to be started and place in groupings. You may need several starting times ie. 12 weeks, 10 weeks, 8 weeks, etc. Sub-divide packages into groups which require light, no-light, warmth, cold, etc.
Containers: Almost any container will do as long as it is clean and allows good drainage: cut-down milk cartons, wooden flats, pressed peat boxes, plastic boxes, egg cartons, peat pots, jiffy pellets, and yogurt containers. Recycled containers can be sterilized with bleach and hot water or the dishwasher.
Growing Media: Artificial soil eg. “Pro-Mix”, is excellent for starting seeds since it is a sterilized, disease-free growing medium, made up of peat and perlite. It is light in weight, and retains moisture well (but never allow it to dry out completely since it is difficult to re-moisten.) If using potting soil or garden soil, bake or pour boiling water over it to inhibit disease, and lighten it up with vermiculite or perlite and peat moss. A good idea is to treat the soil surface at the time of seeding with a chemical called “No Damp” which inhibits the growth of a fungus which makes seedlings keel over.
Sowing: Read and follow directions carefully on seed packages as some seeds need special treatment!
1. Fill container and tamp down firmly.
2. Broadcast seeds or plant in rows as evenly as possible. Small seeds may be mixed with pepper or fine sand and sprinkled from salt shaker or use a seed drill.
3. Cover most seeds with fine soil or vermiculite, usually 2 times the thickness of the seed (be careful! There are exceptions since some seeds need light to germinate). Press firmly.
4. Label containers.
5. Water: either with fine spray mist or from the bottom by soaking in lukewarm water.
6. Cover with glass or plastic sheets. Zip-lock bags may be used for individual containers.
Temperature and Light: Follow instructions on the package. Most seeds germinate best with gentle bottom heat; i.e. Heating cable, heating pad, top of fridge, water heater, etc. Others prefer to be placed in a cool area. Some need total darkness for germination while others require light and should not even be covered with soil.
Germination:
1. Be aware of possible germination time (from package or previous notes). Check daily and don’t give up too quickly since most seeds germinate erratically.
2. Remove from heat source when most of germination is complete.
3. Remove plastic.
4. Spray regularly with “No Damp” and avoid overcrowding of containers.
5. Use gentle watering, preferably soaking from the bottom, or spray mist but not with cold water.
6. Lower growing temperature by approximately 10 degrees.
Growing:
1. A good growing temperature is 22̊C daytime; 18̊C nighttime.
2. Water and fertilize regularly with a special “seedling” fertilizer (e.g. Plant Prod) or a 20-20-20 fertilizer.
3. Allow soil surface to become dry to prevent mildew.
4. 12-16 hours of light is best for optimal plant growth. Ordinary fluorescent tubes will do the trick but allow 6 inches between the seedlings and the light source and 12 inches between lights and top leaves of larger plants.
5. Larger seedlings may have to be transplanted more than once before hardening off.
Transplanting:
1. Transplant when the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves (not seed leaves).
2. Use pencil, pickle fork, etc. to gently lift and transplant seedling (holding by leaves, not stem) into pre-prepared hole at the same growing depth for most plants.
3. A richer soil mixture may be used; i.e. 2 parts loam, 1 part peat moss, 1 part vermiculite or perlite, or continue with Pro Mix, but be
prepared to fertilize more.
4. Label and water carefully after packing soil carefully around seedlings. Avoid overcrowding of seedlings and containers.
5. Smaller seedlings, such as lobelia, may be transplanted in small clumps.
6. Difficult seedlings can be grown in biodegradable peat pots or pellets for direct transplanting into large pots or the garden.
7. Time your transplanting so that you move the boxes into a greenhouse, lean-to, or cold frame starting around the beginning of May. Of course, watch the temperature and provide heat during the nights when the temperature will dip below 0̊C!
Never place young plants directly from your house or greenhouse into the garden. To avoid shock and to build up tolerance for the elements, young plants need to go through a 7 to 10 day “hardening off” period by placing the plant outside for several hours in a sheltered spot the first day.
Gradually increase the time outdoors until they are ready to be placed in the garden permanently.